The Devil’s Kitchen has a very high route concentration and an easy approach. Simple, safe toprope set-ups make this spot incredibly popular on nice weekends. The climbing, lighting and backdrop in the Kitchen (also known as the “Hellhole”) simply cannot be beat. The climbs here are challenging (WI 4-M7) yet never extreme, and there’s potential for some new routes on the upper cliffs.

Parking and Approach

The Devil’s Kitchen is at the top of Platte Clove. From Tannersville follow County Rt 16. Park in the DEC parking lot on the left side of the road. If you hit the cul de sac you’ve gone too far. If the lot isn’t plowed you can park at the end of the road, but be sure to park carefully and not block the driveway. You may want to bring a shovel in case you’re plowed in during a snowstorm.

There are a few ways to approach the Devil’s Kitchen. The best option involves rappelling in from above, or descending the gully below the stone bridge. Both of these options involve crossing private property. Currently the landowners are tolerant of climbers crossing their property to gain access to the climbs. It is imperative that we be respectful while parking and entering the Kitchen in order to maintain easy access. The third, and most complex approach (and suggested in Marty Molitoris’s guidebook) is to head down hill by the red cabin (just before the trailhead for the Black Chasm) and contour left above the lower cliffs yet remaining below the upper cliffs. Use caution on this approach. A slip on frozen dirt or snow could kill you. Although this is the only legitimate approach it’s not one I can recommend due to the objective hazard. When in doubt use a rope. Climbers have died trying to traverse the frozen dirt slopes above Catskills climbing areas.

What to Bring

The Kitchen is a cragging area where you can get by with a single rope, a standard ice rack, and a standard rock rack. Many of the routes have some fixed hardware, and lower off anchors have been intelligently placed on a few climbs (new addition this past season). A static rope is nice to have if you’re going to build anchors from above.

Other Things Worth Mentioning

The Kitchen receives a lot of traffic. The ice can get hacked to death by parties who remain on the same route all day long. If you’re just getting into ice climbing take the time to work on technique – the best climbers are delicate, and don’t blindly slug their way to the top. The thin classics like Purgatory are easy to toprope, and you can learn a lot by climbing on a toprope. The problem is that these climbs don’t grow after the first wave of cold weather. Toproping by less-than-delicate climbers can alter the integrity of the ice and make things more dangerous for subsequent ascents by leaders.

Topping out can be problematic during both the early and late seasons. Whole climbs can become delaminated and hollow. Top-outs are frequently detached, hollow and unfrozen. Rock gear and a solid lead head are useful on these days. Consider toproping if you’re concerned, or just go rock climbing in the Gunks instead.

Last winter while climbing the Cauldron I kept smelling human fecies. It turns out someone most likely took a shit in the drainage above the climb. A heavy mid-season rainstorm washed away the snow and everything in it. This left shit stuck to the ice climb. For the rest of the day my knee stunk. It’s funny when it’s not your clothing. If you need to do anything other than urinate consider packing it out. You can buy Wag Bags or make your own using kitty litter and heavy duty plastic bags. Out of sight (in snow) does not mean disposed of properly.

The Climbs

There are several cliffs in the Devil’s Kitchen. There are 3 cliffs that comprise the main Devil’s Kitchen and several waterfalls/amphitheaters along Plattekill Creek to the west.

Upper Southeast Kitchen

Coming soon….

Lower Southeast Kitchen

The most popular cliff in the area, and maybe the most popular cliff in the Catskills due to convenient toprope setups and fun climbing. This spot has a really high route concentration.

1. Unnamed, Grade 4, 20m
2. Dream a Little Dream, M6+, 20m, bolts – harder since a flake fell off below the crux
3. Hell On Wheels, M7-, 20m, gear to 4″ – 1-2 bolts at the start
4. Reincarnation, M4 WI4, 25m, gear to 2″, classic, easier than it looks, tough gear at times
5. Unnamed, WI 5, 20m – short and fierce, if it were longer it would be grade 6
6. 1st Corner, WI 4/4+, 25 m
7. Unnamed, WI 4+/5-, 25m
8. 2nd Corner, WI 4, 25m, finger size gear early/late season
9. Unnamed, WI4 M5, gear to 1″plus specter if crack is iced up, tough tooling with great sticks
10. 3rd Corner, WI 4-, 30m from bottom corner small cams early and late season
11. Smear, WI 5- M6, 30m with M6 starts, bolts under the ice the entire way (mostly on right)
12. Smear Direct, M7, WI 5-R, 30m, Corner to right leaning seam then thin flow to top, bolts, runout
13. Purgatory, M4 WI 5-, 30 m, bolts and gear, classic sustained climbing
14. Straight to Hell, M7, 30m, bolts and gear. good tooling across a steep face, tough exit moves

Northwest Kitchen

Coming soon…

Plattekill Creek Climbs

Coming soon…