The steep moist sandstone outcrops of the Catskill region have amazing steep mixed routes. I have included a list of some of my favorite routes below. Each thumbnail image can be enlarged by clicking on it.

Moore’s Bridge

Catskill Ice Hose – WI 3+/4-, mixed – Near the left end of the Moore’s Bridge wall is a short steep corner that usually has 3″-4″ of ice at the start. Climb the corner (thin or mixed) to a tree and step left onto a sheet of ice. Climb this to the top passing a thin bulge near the top. Rappel from the large pine on right at the top. Bolted, but the upper bolts are frequently covered by ice.

Rawdon’s Roof – M6+ – On the steep wall at the right end of Moore’s Bridge is a wide roof crack that starts about one third of the way up. Climb through the roof using torques and edges. Follow a thin crack up to the ice and follow typically hollow funky ice to the top. Bring a big cam for the initial bulge. This route goes on gear the whole way despite the fixed gear placed after the first ascent.

Kaaterskill Falls Amphitheater

Gottlieb’s Roof – WI 4, M4 – On the right side of the amphitheater is the starting column of this beautiful route. Be patient and let this route form up fully. If not you risk having a column fall off with you on it. Both times I’ve been on this route it has frightened me a little. Both sections have pillars that can detach easily. Climb the column to the second tier (WI 4). Move left and finish up the free-standing pillar underneath the roof. Traverse right and climb up the turf corner to the top. A 4″ Camalot was nice to have, as well as a few other finger/hand size pieces.

Devil’s Kitchen

Purgatory – WI 5-, M6 – The rightmost route in the Devil’s Kitchen, and certainly one of the most striking routes in the Catskills. This route is a testament to Adirondack climber Joe Szot’s talent and willpower; his first ascent of Purgatory was lead entirely on gear. Sadly, this route has since been poorly retrobolted. Without the bolts this is an incredibly necky and challenging onsite. Many of the bolts are either covered by ice or next to cracks. If you lead this route bring a handful of 10-13cm screws, a rack of cams from .4″-3″, and perhaps a spectre.

The Black Chasm

Instant Karma – WI 5 – The slightly hidden bolts make the lower half of this route safe for mere mortals. I’ve done this one twice and it’s one of the finest single pitches anywhere. Last winter I had to chimney up behind the upper column and then traverse around to the front to top out. Definitely hard, and typically dry and brittle; you’ve got to be very delicate with this one. A regular ice rack will suffice.