Thank Your Mother

For most of us, it seems, there is the distinct possibility that we wouldn’t be where we are today without the help and support of our parents. I know I wouldn’t be who I am today without the unconditional love and complete support of my parents. When I was a kid they drove me all over the place so that I could go to mountain bike races, and on hiking and backpacking trips. As an adult they have embraced my decision to be a full-time climbing guide. In fact they might even be my biggest followers and promoters of this site.

So, if your mom is anything like my Mom, remember to thank her today and everyday for being a wonderful, hard-working person and helping you to achieve success in this life. Thank you dad too; he’ll appreciate it;)

Winger for the Weekend

Black Diamond has had a “Journal” section on their website for a while now. They post all sorts of things: reports about products, equipment testing results and humorous videos.

I’ve been watching the “Winger for the Weekend” for a few months now. I look forward to every week’s post and have watched many of the older posts. If you want a rollicking gut laugh watch of few of these videos.

Some of my favorites are #64 (I laughed until I cried), #63 (Talking Kitty part 2), and #54 (the yosemitebear double rainbow). You can also find them on the BD website by searching for “winger for the weekend”.

Have fun and don’t forget to share these links.

Tainted Luck

Finding a $20 bill on the ground when there’s clearly no one around or having an unexpected day off when you’ve been working a lot feels like good luck. As a climber, I’ve been realizing, luck doesn’t always feel so good. Getting lucky often means narrowly escaping disaster. Frequently this disaster probably could have been averted by using sound judgment in the first place. In fact getting lucky as a climber feels a bit icky, almost like narrowly averting a bad accident when you’re behind the wheel of an automobile. A knotted stomach, flush hot skin and a racing heart are the not uncommon results of this unpleasant adrenaline rush. Hopefully these things don’t accompany a serious injury.

My partner told me today, while cragging at Farley, that I am almost making her not want to climb anymore. She’s solidified her gear placement skills this season and is now working on trying to climb higher above her gear before placing the next piece. I had cautioned her that you don’t want to string gear so far apart that if one piece of gear fails you hit the deck. Today, as she tied a “Yosemite Finish” on her eight I mentioned to her how a Yosemite finish on your figure eight tie-in knot isn’t great because if the eight rolls you really don’t have an eight anymore. Try it sometime – loosely tie a figure eight on your harness with a Yosemite finish and pull at the bight created by the knot. Once the  eight inverts you no longer have an eight but rather a strange sort of slip knot.

There have been several “lucky” recent events which have affected me either directly or indirectly. All of the events could have turned out worse but could also have been prevented. A local Gunks climber was lowered off the end of his rope by his belayer at City of Rocks. The climber experienced a torn MCL, a severe laceration to the head, a broken nose, and a few cracked ribs among other smaller injuries. There was no knot in the end of the rope. Another friend took a whipper on the first pitch of Three Doves and the piton at the crux caught her. As her second came up he wiggled the pin out with his fingers. Had the pin failed she may have hit the ledges below. Two weeks ago a climber fell 90 feet from the first belay on Middle Earth. He allegedly said “ok” and his belayer took him off belay. The climber then leaned back and fell all the way to the ground. He lived to tell the tale yet experienced a severe femur fracture. And today, as I went to untie my knot after a route at Farley, I realized that I hadn’t finished tying my figure eight. Fortunately I had almost finished and what I had was an in-line eight which holds loads similar to a normal eight but is far less stable when the tail is loose.

Back on the ground after my incident I sat down to belay and you can bet I didn’t dare say a thing to my partner. I was thinking about how lucky I was and how awful I felt. I could have sworn that I checked my knot before I left the ground and I even verbalized that I had a good knot before I left the ground but didn’t turn around for inspection by my partner. As a guide you’re always trying to impress upon your clients that safety is paramount so how could this have happened to me? How had all of these events occurred? What can we do?

Well I know one thing for sure. I’m not going to stop climbing because of these events. However, I am going to try and be more cautious, less cavalier and less complacent. The bottom line here: climbing isn’t safe. We do a lot of things to make it safer but gravity never stops pulling one down and the ground never stops being hard. No matter what you do out there at the cliff climbing will never be as safe as staying at home. So, take those reality checks seriously, learn how to place gear often and effectively, teach yourself some self-rescue and remember to double check the important things like harnesses, belay commands, knots and climbing anchors. Be as safe as possible out there, the climbing life can be long if you’re careful.

New Homes and Runny Noses

goldenrod

We’re just about settled in our new place in the Pioneer Valley in western Massachusetts. I’ve been trying to check out the local crags whenever possible to sample the really fine climbing here. The other day I was out walking just behind my house (there is a trail straight out of the backyard) and I took this picture down by the lake. I’m pretty sure the excessive amount of goldenrod in bloom right now is the source of my snot faucet, but it’s pretty nonetheless.

5 Breweries Worth Checking Out

Not climbing talk, I know. Heck, most climbers like beer though. I know I do. I frequently stand scratching the scruff on my chin as I pore over a beverage center’s beer selection. There is a lot of beer out there, and the microbrew and high-gravity ale revolution is in full swing in the United States. On the east coast there are a number of really outstanding breweries to sample. If you enjoy a frosty cold one just a bit more than once in a while and haven’t already, be sure to check out the breweries listed below.

Brewery Ommegang, Cooperstown NY

Ommegang may be the finest Belgian-style beer brewery in the United States. I’ve drunk a lot of this stuff. Particularly the Abbey Ale and the Hennepin. Their beers are bottle conditioned so rack them away for a while in a cool dark place or at the back of your refrigerator if you have that kind of self control. While you can buy these beers in 12 oz. bottles they’re better in the 25 oz. cork top bottle-conditioned bottles. Priced at $7-8/25 oz bottle they’re reasonably priced as well. The Abbey Ale is my favorite U.S. beer of that genre and perhaps my favorite beer. The Hennepin might be the best U.S. example of a saison (a farmhouse ale, which is a bit like a winey hefeweizen). These beers are well worth the money and time, but don’t drink too much. Like many other Belgian beers they’re heavy on the malt, making them warm fuzzy hangover machines.

Dogfish Head, Rehoboth Beach, DE

Look out! I was initially averse to the Dogfish Head beers, but I’ve been won over and they’re another one of my favorites. They make some pretty good IPA’s, which I’m not generally a fan of. However, they drink much more like strong ales, with a little less hoppiness than most IPA’s. You really can’t go wrong with any of their beers. They’re getting to be more popular, and in terms of availability, are a bit the way Sierra Nevada was 10 years ago. The 90 Minute IPA (available in 4 packs) is a great place to start.

Troegs Brewing Company, Mechanicsburg, PA

Another brewery that makes good tasting beer all-around. I guess they must not have much else to do in Pennsyltucky. They aren’t terribly high-gravity but they taste great. The sampler 12-pack is a good place to start. The Hopback Amber Ale is particulary good, and worth getting your hands on. Again this beer can be hard to find outside of the Mid-Atlantic so definitely try it when you get the chance.

Victory Brewing Company, Downingtown, PA

Wow. These guys are hitting homeruns left and right. Again, a sampler is the way to go for starters. Golden Monkey packs a real punch (don’t drink more than a few) with serious sweetness and high gravity, even for a trippel. The Hop Devil and Prima Pils are very fine beers, you really can’t get much better than them in their genre (American IPA and Pilsner respectively). Victory beer is on the pricey side and when I feel like spending a little extra it’s definitely an outstanding choice.

Smuttynose Brewing Company, Portsmouth, NH

Good old reliable Smuttynose. It’s easy to find in supermarkets and beverage centers. It tastes good. Most of their beer is, all things considered, reasonably priced. This is routinely my brewery of choice for regular beer drinking. They have a big bottle (25 oz.) series with many seasonally available beers to try. They’re all good. I have been enjoying the Wheat Wine (big) and the Summer Weizen on hot days (of which there were many this summer). Their beer is eminently drinkable and widely available. Keep up the good work boys.

Have fun with this list, I know I do!

Thorfinn Expeditions

Thorfinn ExpeditionsAbout 8 years ago, one year out of college, I moved to Bend, Oregon. Actually, my girlfriend at the time and I set out from Burlington, Vermont with no particular destination in mind. We knew we wanted to live somewhere out west. After thousands of miles and several weeks of traveling in a fully loaded pickup truck we arrived in central Oregon. At that time Bend was a popular destination for recently graduated Larries (St. Lawrence University graduates). It seemed like a pretty hip outdoor town and we couch surfed with some friends for a few weeks while we found a place to live.

During that time we struck up a friendship with a nice couple from Maine who had also recently relocated to Bend. They were Thor and Sarah (along with their dog Ocean) and they were friendly, funny and perhaps feeling a bit isolated, as we were. Being in a new town with no friends is hard and companionship eases one’s transition when you’re in a new place. We quickly became fast friends with Thor and Sarah, whom we shared a New England bond with. They were both from Maine, and like us, shared a love for the outdoors.

Our stay in Bend lasted for only one year. Thor and Sarah stayed there a few more years but they too have come home to the northeast. They now live in Lincolnville, Maine and run a day and multi-day sailing excursion business called Thorfinn Expeditions along the coast of Maine and beyond. Their custom boat, a Presto 30, has a really shallow draft so it can be sailed into coves and around shoals where most other boats can’t go.

Thorfinn Expeditions offers a number of cool day trips and can do custom trips that involve multiple sports. The small nimble Presto 30 can be used to approach maritime climbing areas and rocky coves for sea kayaking. Thor, the boat’s captain is a really competent sea kayaker and climber  and has extensive experience traveling on both the Atlantic and Pacific maritime coasts.

If you’re interested in sailing along the Maine coast and want a unique experience, or are looking for a different way of approaching the climbing at Acadia give Thor a call or shoot him an email. He’ll show you a good time and make sure you have a safe experience. I’m hoping to make the Thorfinn my approach vessel for a southern Newfoundland rock trip just as soon as I can.

A New Camera!

sandyhook2 My old camera, a Panasonic Lumix TZ-4, travelled with me everywhere I went. Over the past year I took thousands of images with that camera. It was a relatively basic point-and-shoot camera with a 28mm lens. Panasonic has been using Leica lenses in their cameras and the image quality is pretty darn good.

I let the camera hang off of a shoulder sling with the lens open (camera in the “ON” position) a bit too often and after about a year now the lens has a lot of scratches. The image quality was affected by these scratches, especially when shooting in bright daylight conditions.

My new camera, a Lumix ZS-5, arrived from B&H last week and I could barely contain my excitement. I could care less about the even bigger zoom than my old model. What I’m psyched about is the 25mm super wide lens (good for getting more into the image), the added megapixels for larger blow ups should I decide to print, and the “M” option. This “manual” option allows the user to adjust the aperture and speed for better images.

We’ll see over the coming weeks, as the leaves turn. I shot these few images at Sandy Hook, down near my folks place.

sandyhook3 sandyhook1

An Oldie but a Goody

suzy_house

I unloaded images off of my Blackberry a few days ago and was treated to a few surprises. This may have been the best (along with the Minnewaska sunset from the last post) image there. It’s a shot of my friend Suzy’s house outside Three Forks, MT. They have a sweet spot with a little lake on the property. Standing water is hard to come by in the Rockies and this place seems like a real oasis. Lucky them, I guess. Not a bad shot for a 3 megapixel phone either.

East Coast or Bust

Well, I’ve been back in the northeast now for about 9 days and I’m relieved to say the least. My last trip to the Cascades was a tough one. The trip and the clients were, as usual, amazing and upbeat. The challenge laid more in the number of transitions I was quickly forced to make in the days prior to the trip. A serious airline fiasco (see my last post) made things much worse by ripping the band-aid off what was basically a nasty open wound.

minnewaska_sunset trail_sign

I started doing some simple math, and it turns out that I’d been in New Paltz less than 10 of the past 50 days. No wonder I was feeling out of sync and tired. I am a homebody and an individual who identifies strongly with the northeast.

penitente_field logan_traverse logan_and_me

The last few days of work have helped the readjustment process. A SUNY Backpacking trip in the roadless wooded quiet of the Catskills, a film shoot at majestic Lake Minnewaska (perhaps the most beautiful place on the east coast) at sunset, and yesterday…

Yesterday I was given a giant treat – a Mohonk Mountain House client who wanted to climb Foops. Our half day included Foops, No Exit and Krapp’s Last Tape. Not a bad half day and a pretty tough transition to make. Mt. Rainier one week, 5.11 in the Gunks the next. Umm, ok. I was reminded why rock climbing always seems like my favorite thing to do. The movement is pure joy, and pushing it above gear when you’re pumped is so exciting.