A New Look

Well, I decided a few months ago to give my blog and website a new look. Even though my guiding work is slow due to a lack of winter, I’ve managed to fill my days with other things and have neglected developing a new theme for Bigfoot.

In past posts I’ve written about how I use Windows operating systems and Android open source phone software. In an upcoming post I’ll discuss some of the free open source software that I use on an almost daily basis.

I’m a huge fan of open-source software. There are highly functional open source applications that can replace almost any program or software suite you would normally buy.

One of my favorite open-source applications is WordPress. This site and many others run using WordPress as the backbone of their site. It’s a free, easy to use and highly customizable web-based publishing platform.

There are hundreds of free themes for WordPress, and many more paid themes that offer easy to use administrative user interfaces. I’m using a barely modified Twenty Eleven theme for this site right now. Twenty Eleven is the stock theme that comes with WordPress 3.2 and higher. It’s a spacious and simple theme that has automatic width adjustment which is useful for keeping a site’s most important content near the top. For my site, mainly a blog, this is nice.

If you’re looking to set up a website or blog, by all means check out wordpress.org and wordpress.com. It’s the perfect starting place for just about any blog or simple website.

Saint-Alban

I’ve spoken with a few other friends recently, and many have agreed that we can’t remember an ice season that began so late in a very long time. So, what do you do when you’re in the throes of a paltry ice season and you need a fix?

If you answered “make a ridiculously long drive for two days of climbing somewhere in the middle of nowhere in Quebec” you read my mind. This week marked my friend and regular climbing partner Chris Beauchamp’s 35th birthday, and to celebrate we went climbing in Quebec.

Even the Great White North is experiencing “winter lite” this season. We headed to Saint-Alban though, where most of the climbing is on overhanging limestone. 90 percent of the climbing is rock, although a handful of the routes manage to climb a few feet of ice.

This type of mixed climbing seems contrived. Nonetheless, it’s really fun to clip bolts and crank away on routes that are radically overhanging. Here are a few photos from our 48-hour northern excursion.

saint-alban-overview

The main climbing area at Saint-Alban

m5

The easiest route at the cliff, and a great warm up

m8-maybe

Chris, working on an M8 in the center of the cliff

Cannon Goes Off!

Ice climbing is a little like surfing. An exceptional storm can create the “perfect” set of conditions. Once the word is out that conditions are good a crowd of devotees won’t be far behind.

bayard-meanstreak1

As a winter venue, Cannon Cliff only comes into shape after heavy rain followed by an intense cold snap. These conditions, which are common at either end of the season, don’t last long. The sunny clear conditions that frequently accompany the post-rain cold snap are all that’s needed to delaminate any thinner, climbable ice on Cannon, even if it’s only fifteen degrees outside.

Last Saturday I went to Grafton Notch with my friend Erik Eisele. We got skunked; the Hackett-Tremblay, which was nearly in shape the weekend before, had literally disappeared. We spent the remainder of the day getting bouted on one of Erik’s mixed projects in northern New Hampshire.

Sunday Erik went to Cannon, where he and his partner had the cliff to themselves. He took some photos throughout the day and posted them on NEIce and Facebook that evening. The photos were of a very fat Fafnir, Hassigs and Black Dike, and of Mean Streak and Omega. The routes looked healthy, a rarity during a normal season and an absolute anomaly during an almost non-existent season like the one we’re currently experiencing.

By 7:30 the following morning (Monday) multiple parties had made plans to climb at Cannon on Tuesday. Michael Wejchert, Elliott Gaddy and I arrived at the Cannon parking lot at 7:30 Tuesday. There were already 5 cars in the parking lot, and while we were racking up there two more vehicles arrived.

We approached as for the Black Dike and traversed left below the cliff toward the Omega amphitheater. Near the base we bumped into Bayard Russell, Freddie Wilkinson and Matt McCormick racking up for Mean Streak. This challenging route has seen only a handful of ascents and involves continuously steep and challenging climbing.

elliot-omega1

Elliott Gaddy starting up Omega

With no one else in the amphitheater besides the party on Mean Streak we headed for Omega. Elliott, Michael and I have all tried Omega before. Not only is Omega a challenging ice climb, it’s a tough route to catch in the right conditions. Like all other Cannon routes that involve thin ice climbing, getting to the climb before the sun delaminates all of the ice might be the biggest challenge. Elliott won the three-way rock-paper-scissors, and started up a rock and turf ramp to the right of the ice. The lower half of Omega rarely has enough ice to be climbable.

Rock climbing with crampons on the blank, slabby granite found at Cannon is an experience everyone should try at least once. Turn your points the wrong way and your feet will go skating off the sloped ledges. Turf shots are less abundant and always less substantial than one hopes as well, making even easy mixed climbing feel really challenging.

Elliott’s lead turned out to be more challenging than it looked, and had less protection than is normally desirable. It was an impressive way to start the season. I took over at the belay and led up a fun well-protected rock pitch which ended on the halfway ledge, where the ice begins to get more abundant. Michael and Elliott were at the belay in no time.

michael-p3

Michael Wejchert below the crux on Omega

Michael, who’s climbed more ice terrain than mixed terrain, took over at this point and led up steep thin ice to a slabby ledge above. As he stood on the ledge trying to find solid tool placements the hollow, unbonded 2-inch thick ice slab creaked and groaned. Michael decided the climbing above was more than he wanted to deal with. After a few sketchy moves back down, he was safe on the ledge. Elliott gave the pitch a go next. He climbed a few feet higher and managed to find two fixed pitons on the right wall of the corner. Above that, the thin ice of the crux was both unprotectable and not well bonded. After lowering off the two fixed pitons we decided to rappel. I didn’t need to try the crux ice pitch as well to decide that leading a full pitch of hollow, unbonded ice was a risky proposition.

Safely back on the ground, we realized that not succeeding isn’t the worst thing. It gives us a reason to come back, try again, and wander up what might be the East Coast’s finest alpine venue.

Sparks

There isn’t any ice to speak of in the northeast right now. I took a ride up to Smuggler’s Notch last weekend with a few good friends. Our findings were pretty grim – unfrozen ground, delaminated ice and very dry looking climbs. If this is any indication it’s not going to be a banner season in the northeast. Despite the rainy October and tropical storm deluges of August and September things seem dry.

Here are a few shots from my Smuggler’s Notch trip last weekend.

michael_ehg mikey_grandconf alden-ent mikey-olog-hai

How I Use A Heart Rate Monitor For Training

All my life I’ve been addicted to aerobic exercise. In middle school and early on in high school I raced mountain bikes competitively. In high school I also ran track and cross-country.

My former coach, Jack Martin, who’s a living legend among high school coaches in NJ, recognized talent in his athletes and pushed us hard. He pushed me harder than I thought I could go. Our squad trained hard multiple days a week and frequently did crippling workouts. With several highly motivated and talented runners on the team, our road runs precipitated into lung-busting race pace battles that went on for miles.

During college I would work out twice a day, and it wasn’t uncommon for me to do a 40 mile road ride and run 4-6 miles in the same day. Sleep was unimportant and I ate whatever I wanted. Going hard during a workout was a given.

Now I’m 33. I’m pretty fit and I still eat whatever I want. Mostly. I can do without sleep too. For a few nights. However, going hard all the time isn’t as easy to do anymore.

Rest is really important. It might be the most crucial component to an intensive training program, and it’s frequently overlooked. Have you ever gone climbing after a hiatus from climbing and noticed you perform really well? Have you also noticed that this window of good performance only lasts 1-2 days? That good performance is likely due to the fact that the muscles you use for climbing are completely rested.

The first run after a break is like that too. The next day’s run, not so much. That might be part of the reason so few people like running. You have to break through the hurt to get the reward. If you can break this cycle aerobic training begins to feel good, and it gets addictive.

Even good things like aerobic training can become counterproductive at times though. This is especially true when you’re combining aerobic training with weight-training or climbing. It’s easy to overtrain, and if you don’t recognize the feeling you could get sick, injured, or just end up feeling unmotivated.

What’s the best way to prevent overtraining? Eating well, staying hydrated and sleeping a lot are important. Resting is the most important thing you can do to prevent overtraining.

Have you ever felt more out of breath than normal on a climb or during a workout? Is your heart racing even though you feel like you’re taking it easy? Perhaps you worked out several of the past few days. This is an indicator that you’re efforts are becoming counterproductive. Feeling tired or lethargic is another sign. I’m not talking post workout lethargy, or the morning pre-coffee sleepies, I’m talking about a real fatigue that’s hard to push through and doesn’t go away for several days.

This is overtraining and it’s easy to prevent. One way is to take several days or a week off. It’s hard to do, but frequently this is the best way to recover from a serious training effort. Another effective way to prevent overtraining is by using a heart rate monitor for aerobic workouts.

This may seem counterintuitive, but I only use a heart rate monitor on easy days. When I want to work out hard I don’t mind getting physically blasted. Many of your other training days should just be mileage though, and these days should be fairly easy. While not exactly leisurely, during these workouts you should be able to zone out, think about other things, or look around and enjoy the day.

If you’re not careful though, these days can turn into something harder. All of a sudden you’ve done 3-4 semi-hard days in a row, you feel tired, and none of the workouts, except maybe the first one, were particularly fast or rewarding.

It’s easy to psychologically trick yourself into working harder during the easy days and this is what you want to prevent. A heart rate monitor is useful for this. A good heart rate monitor will accurately measure your heart rate the way a tachometer measures RPM in your car. You can tell how hard your heart is working no matter how hard you feel like your body is working.

You can use the heart rate monitor and conduct a few tests to determine several training zones. Recently, I haven’t concerned myself too much with all of the different target zones.  I’ve identified a range that I can roughly say is my running “lactate threshold” range. This is the range above which my muscles cells no longer work aerobically. The lactate threshold range can vary depending on activity (generally because of muscle size and efficiency or lack thereof) so if you’re cycling and running to gain aerobic fitness, your lactate threshold range might be a bit lower for one (probably cycling) and a bit higher for the other (probably running).

I use the heart rate monitor on mileage and recovery days when I’m already feeling a bit tired. I can use it to keep my heart rate far below my “lactate threshold” range. This keeps that particular workout easy, no matter how slow or fast I’m actually running.

During hard workouts, if I wear the monitor at all, I use it to make sure I recover fully between hard efforts.

Look forward to more fitness posts in the future. I will be attempting to post more regularly about fitness.

Powerlines

I grew up in New Jersey. When I started rock climbing I visited places like Watchung, Allamuchy, and Wanaque. As soon as I discovered the Gunks, I didn’t look back. During college I climbed in the Dacks on weekends, in the Gunks on long weekends, and explored other areas during the summer and winter breaks.

torne-approach-hdr After school I lived in Oregon, Vermont, New York, North Carolina. I enjoyed climbing in all of those places, plus many other places. There is a lot of climbing in the United States

Most of my family is still living in New Jersey, and I like seeing them when I have the chance. To be honest, though, I don’t really like going to New Jersey for too many other reasons. It’s a busy place. Half the people there drive like real assholes.

The Ramapo Valley, along the border of New York and New Jersey, is a region of small hills and valleys. There are boulders and crags in many places throughout this valley. During my youth, as I drove through this area, I was convinced there must be climbing there. You can see half a dozen cliffs along the highway in the Ramapo Valley on the way to the Shawangunks.

On Sunday, after visiting family in New Jersey for the second weekend in a row, I visited one of several crags in the Ramapo Valley. We went to the spot climbers have begun to call Powerlinez and climbed at the Tower Wall.

tower-cliff-hdr I’m not going to call this spot scenic. There are huge high-tension wires buzzing overhead, there’s a landfill across the street from the parking and you can always hear cars and trucks rumbling by on the New York State Thruway at the bottom of the valley.

The climbing was fun though. The rock is a heavily metamorphosed granitic gneiss which climbs like granite. There are lots of horizontal and vertical crack systems and the rock has good friction. The boulders below are beautiful and there’s quite a bit of exploring that can be done here.

One of the best things about the Powerlinez is that it’s south-facing, making it a warm spot all year long. Pretty much any sunny winter day, not matter how cold, will be good for climbing there.

jc-powerlinez The Ramapo Valley, only a 40-minute ride from NYC is bound to become popular day trip for climbers looking to get out of the city. More traffic will clean the routes up and make the rock feel more solid.

I’m really excited to go back again soon. If you live near the Ramapo Valley and haven’t checked out the Powerlinez, make a trip there sometime this winter. The guidebook, written by a local climber and fellow Alpine Endeavors guide Jon Crefeld is available for sale at some of the local climbing gyms and gear shops

 

 

A Useful Suite of Photo Apps

I posted recently about how to turn your smartphone into a useful backcountry tool. Since then I’ve delved deeply into the world of Android phones and discovered their extreme functionality. Along the way I found a few apps that I really enjoy, and think will be useful outdoors.

Before we get going I need to mention one thing. It’s great there are so many free Android and Iphone apps, but let’s not forget that developers make their living designing useful computer applications. If you like an app, upgrade to the pro version and buy that programmer a cup of coffee or one more day of heat in his/her abode.

Below are a group of photo apps that are really useful, and work especially well when you have all of them. I’ve included them as a “suite”. Two image-capture applications, one editing app, and a really good gallery app. If you have an Android phone check these out.

HDR Camera+

High Dynamic Range (HDR) imaging is a technology some photographers have been using to capture more vivid, life-like images. HDR images consist of several bracketed (different f-stops for each exposure) exposures which are generally merged using software afterward. The result is an image that looks more like what you see with your eyes. Most smartphones generally have at least a 5 megapixel camera and already act like a small computer, so it’s no surprise that someone’s designed an application that outputs HDR images.

nightsky-cropped-psex

I’ve been playing around with HDR Camera+ both indoors and outdoors, and the results are striking. There are fewer dark images. It’s nice to know I can leave my Lumix camera at home on days that I don’t feel like taking too many pictures. With HDR Camera+ I have a good way to get beautiful landscape images with my pnone.

 

Photaf

The Iphone has the mother of all stitching apps, Microsoft Photosynth. It takes images and stitches them together on the fly. You can take images of the entire sky or o fanything you see in front of you. When I saw this app I was hopeful that there was a similar app for Android.

It turns out there isn’t. The camera on most Android phones won’t take images quickly enough for Photosynth to work well, plus developers have to design a program that will work on more than one type of phone and operating system.

There are a number of photo stitching applications available. I settled on Photaf, an app that creates panoramas using either landscape or portrait view (for a taller image). It works well enough most of the time. After a few attempts I began using the “manual” mode. This seemed to work better, as I didn’t have to go as far between images. This makes for a better merge and a nicer looking final image.

 

Adobe Photoshop Express

After you’ve captured images that you’re pleased with it’s time to process them. If you don’t have a laptop along but you want to do some minor post-image processing, Adobe Photoshop Express should do the trick. You can easily adjust contrast, saturation and hue, crop or add effects.

Stuff You Should Read

As climbers we make decisions that affect our safety all the time. Some of these decisions involve choosing the proper “application”. How we apply a tool we have in our toolbox is very important. Some examples of tools we have as climbers are belay methods (ATC, Reverso/ATC Guide, Grigri, Munter hitch), knots (figure eight, flat overhand, bowline, clove hitch) and friction hitches (prusik, autoblock, and klemheist). Generally, my choice to use a particular tool isn’t a random or haphazard decision.

Here’s a simple example. If I need to do improvised rope ascension I can use friction hitches to grab the rope. However, I don’t randomly choose any of the friction hitches I’m familiar with. I apply the best one for the task at hand. If I’m using a piece of cord to tie a friction hitch so I can ascend I’ll use a prusik, as it grabs well but still releases easily. If I am have webbing, I’ll use a klemheist as it grabs a bit better while using the slippery, flat webbing. I won’t even consider an autoblock, as even loaded autoblocks slip easily when you grab them.

There’s a lot of information out there, and much of it should be taken with a grain of salt. The list below isn’t meant to be your final word when making technical decisions. It’s only a reference that can help when choosing which knot to tie, which belay device to use, and which friction hitch to wrap in different scenarios.

Hang ‘Em High: Hang ‘em High is a test of belay device behavior under extreme loads. There’s interesting information about why the GriGri is better than the Cinch, and also good information about how much load belay devices can hold. The article is a bit older now but still good for understanding loads, belay devices, and what a belay device should be able to hold in extreme conditions.

X-Mission: Tom Moyer and the SLC Mountain Rescue crew have done testing on all different types of material. Some of the interesting results in this link: a clove seems to be stronger than a bowline in pull testing, double fisherman’s knot holds better than a water knot in tape, Big Honkin’ Knot (double eight on a bight) is actually weaker than a single eight on a bight. 7mm prusik is really strong.

Tom Moyer’s Test Page: More testing on materials from Tom Moyer. The water knot and EDK testing are pretty cool, testing of high strength cord too.

Guide Tricks for Climbers – SP Parker tested the clove hitch to see what happens with static slow pull testing. He had different results depending on where the load strand was (spine or gate). Either way the results show no slippage.

Climbing Mythbusters – Geir Hundal did some testing to bust a few climbing myths that everyone asks about. There’s some cool stuff here including info about dropping gear, clove hitches, and the EDK. Also some good info about leader loads on gear while belaying with a grigri and a plate

Clove Hitch Testing – Testing by Dave Lane and John Yates (Yates climbing equip.) showing that the clove hitch won’t slip.

Technical Rescue Magazine – Tests of belay methods for rescue loads. Very interesting and compelling arguments for the use of the Grigri for high load belays, and for the Tandem Prusik Belay for securing fixed lines and for use on the belay line during rescue scenarios.

 

The Reminder

For three seasons I visited Red Rocks 1-2 times a year. I carefully catalogued approaches, route beta and descent information. I guided long moderates and climbed a lot of harder single pitch and multipitch lines. In April 2010, after spending 15 days in Las Vegas taking my AMGA Rock Guide Exam, I thought I might never go back to Red Rocks. I was disgusted by the opulence and excess of Las Vegas. I was sick of prickly, sharp objects getting stuck in my clothing. Most of all, I was tired of the climbing and the long approaches in and out of the canyons.

eagle-dance

I don’t generally get bored of climbing areas., However, after spending a part of each of the past five summers alpine guiding in the Washington Cascades and training for my AMGA Alpine Guide Exam, I’ve been feeling the same way about the Cascades. They’ve worn me out. They just feel old, or maybe they make me feel old.

Climbing in these special places tends to lose some of it’s significance when we forget to see the beauty around us. It’s wrong to populate your memory of a beautiful place solely with route information, gear beta, and details about a tricky descent or walk-off route. It happens though, especially if you’re focused on particular objectives.

I just returned from Red Rocks, where I spent most of a week guiding a close friend up really fine climbs. With the exam monkey off my back I was able to enjoy the subtle beauties of Red Rocks. Warm sunny slabs below the Brownstone Wall, the calico-colored boulders in Oak Creek Canyon, and the quiet trickle of water in Pine Creek Canyon are a few of the subtle charms of Red Rocks.

Next time your head is down and your nose is to the grindstone, stop and look around. Remember why you choose to climb in the first place. I’m there because I love being outdoors as much as I love climbing. I bet you feel that way too. Let’s just try not to forget it.

The climbing is beautiful there too! Here is a gallery of images from the trip