If you’ve been climbing for a while now you’ve definitely accumulated a lot of gear. You need rock gear, ice gear, ski gear, big wall and aid gear, and stuff to tote these things to the cliff. I have mountains of gear, some of it is new, some of it is really old, and most of it is in a some highly used state in between.

All winter long I’ve been talking with clients about gear. Many people are asking questions about what gear to buy. I’ve decided to come up with lists of gear that I use very regularly. We currently get great deals on Black Diamond and Outdoor Research at Alpine Endeavors but this is my unbiased list. It’s worth mentioning that I really value simplicity and function over looks and I prefer softshell gear even if I’m going to get wet. As long as you stay warm you’ll dry once you’re done with the pitch. Gear has to work well or I just get plain frustrated.

All-around Set-up for Mountaineering and Winter Climbing

If you are going to get one set-up to do it all, and you asked me for advice this is the list I would give you:

Cold Cold World Chernobyl – For durability, simplicity and value this bag absolutely cannot be beat. Buy a piece of corrugated plastic from an art supply store and slide it in the back to increase stiffness, or use an old framesheet from another pack. This pack climbs well, accepts any tool and holds enough gear and food for a few nights out if you pack sparingly or for full days in the winter with a large kit (rope, rock and ice rack including pins, three tools, 2 L water, puffy, shell, etc.)

BD Sabretooth Crampons – These are the best all around crampons, they climb everything from Grade 6 to M7 well.

La Sportiva Nepal EVO – Warm and durable, these boots climb pretty well and last a long time – which they should for $500.

OR Flex-Tex Gaiters – They’ve changed these this year, making them harder to fit over big boots. Bummer. The EMS Scrambling Gaiter(Name?) is similar. They’re low gaiters that fit underneath trim pants for year-round use; just enough to keep your boots and socks clean and dry.

Patagonia Mountaineering Socks – Thick and durable, these socks maintain their shape after repeated wearing and will make it through a few seasons. Not cheap though at $40/pair. They’re the best socks I’ve ever owned.

Polartec Powerstretch Farmer John – A few companies are still making these (Mountain Hardwear, Marmot) and they are crucial for keeping your lower back from getting cold during the winter. I got one from MEC about ten years ago and still wear it every single day of the winter.

Patagonia Simple Guide Pants – These pants are goofy looking. It’s almost like you have a balloon butt, especially with the tapered legs. However, they climb well, dry fast and are really light and durable.  I wear them year-round for climbing and add extra layers if it’s cold.

Patagonia Capilene Underwear – Any way you go here, you can’t go wrong. I don’t currently get a pro-deal on Patagucci, I look for sales. Yes, that means I have some bright orange underwear.

Icebreaker 200 weight top – I wear wool for day trips in the winter. If it’s a multiday trip I swap this out for a Patagonia Capilene 1 top.

Petzl or Misty Mountain Harness – For function, durability, and price I’ve found these harnesses to be a best buy. I’ve had a handful of BD harnesses which work but always have some memorable flaw that makes me grouchy.

Petzl Caritool – The Petzl Caritool is more robust than the BD Ice clipper. It also has a clip over the top that helps hold it in place. The BD ice clippers spin around and get flipped upside down, which can be frustrating when you’re gripped and trying to get a screw off your harness. I have a BD harness right now and I had to shave the sides down on the Caritool so that it fit through the slot properly.

Outdoor Research Rumor Hoody - This medium weight hoody has a full zip and a smooth exterior making it easy to layer.

Patagonia R2 Jacket - If it’s really cold I’ll add this as an insulating layer. It’s lightweight, warm and compressible.

Patagonia Ascensionist Jacket - This softshell fits a little funny (there’s a bulge in the zipper by your chest) but keeps you dry and dries very quickly. It’s also the first shell I’ve found where my gloves stay tucked under the cuffs.

Patagonia DAS Parka – Another fine, simple Patagonia product. The DAS is warm, lightweight and reasonably priced as far as belay jackets go. Size it tightly for insulation and to climb well, or as a big overlayer for belaying. Plus you get obnoxiously bright Patagonia colors like orange and lime green.

BD Punisher Gloves – Warm, very dry, durable and reasonably priced. You want to size these and most other gloves tightly (they’ll stretch a lot) so that you get a good fit for fiddling with gear.

BD Vipers – Forget the adze if you value your forehead, nose and eyes. These tools climb ice really well and climb mixed routes up to M7 pretty comfortably. Keep an adze head blank for the mountains and get Titan picks for greater durability, the Laser picks (although they’ve been improved) are quite thin.

Petzl Elios - Foam helmets are light, but not durable. The Elios is a lightweight hard shell helmet. The newer design has a nice strap configuration.

Additions/Changes for Steeper, Longer Ice Routes

Petzl M-10 Crampons -These crampons have long sharp frontpoints for better penetration on consistently steep hard ice. They’re on the heavy side and snow will ball up underneath on warmer days, but they climb ice sooo well.

Petzl Nomic – Nomics are great steep ice and mixed tools. Place them and you can quickly grab the upper grip, with very little pick shift, for longer reaches, saving vital energy on long pitches. They have a tendency to bounce a bit on lower angle ice but place amazingly well on steep, bulging ice.

BD Bullet Pack – Put a thermos, headlamp, your puffy and extra gear in here for longer routes. The Bullet is going to last a lot longer than the lightweight, similarly sized BD Magnum.

Additions for Hard Mixed Climbing

Petzl Nomic – a great tool for steep mixed climbing, with a durable, aggressive pick (Astro)

Petzl Dart – I have the Dart front that can be used with the M10 heel piece. You need the long link bar if your feet are larger than size 11. Darts are low profile and lightweight with a slightly shorter frontpoint making them precise for M-climbing

OR Ferrosi Jacket – This lightweight softshell moves with you and works in almost all winter conditions. Great for mobility and some weather protection. Like the Simple Guide Pants the Ferrosi Jacket is a year-round must have.

OR Alibi Gloves – These thin, sticky gloves are great for drytooling, even better than bare hands. I’ve had mine for a few years, and they don’t get used all the time, but they’ve managed to last a while.

Mixed climbing boots – Get some fruit boots. They make mixed climbing so much easier.