This year I’ve taught quite a few SPI Courses, as well as crevasse rescue (sans crevasse) and rock rescue clinics. All of these programs have allowed me to think a great deal about skills that climbers of all disciplines should know before they decide they are self-sufficient.
Basic self-rescue skills involve the following components – belay escapes, load transfers, rappelling/lowering, raising and simple rope ascension. If you understand these skills you can extricate yourself from most (even complex) climbing rescue situations. Assuming that the participants have a basic understanding of knots, anchoring, and belaying I begin most clinics with how to tie off the standard plate belay device (like an ATC) and how to tie a few basic friction hitches. From there we rappel safely and then practice rope ascension. Once those basic skills are mastered you can add load transfers, raises/hauls, and work towards seamless transitions between any skills you might need to employ in a situation. A one-day clinic typically finishes with top belays and raising a stuck climber. A two-day clinic would spend day two solidifying skills and employing them in several possible scenarios.
The participants from last Sunday’s clinic asked me to post pictures from the day. I’ve resized all of the images. While they’re not the best images they’ll help you get an idea about some of the skills, and some safety considerations when initiating any sort of climber assistance.
If you like what you see here consider hiring a professionally trained AMGA certified guide (like me;). They’ll help you iron out any skills that need polishing and can help you build confidence in your climbing systems and knowledge. See you all out there and be safe!
